February 6, 2010
The Ripper : Engine Removal Project
Sandy, Adam and others show up to remove the engine in ‘The Ripper’ This is part one of a mini-series where the CarCast team get the car ready for a yet unannounced track day. What can go wrong you say? Well watch and see!
Photo Gallery
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Will post some picture of shortly! Thanks for those that watched and asked questions, it was as fun as it looked. Now the clean up… No one tell Ace we dumped 8 quarts of oil on the cement!
Sandy
watched all of it and had a great time – looking forward to more.
Get. It. On.
I really like that car! But I’m pretty sure my cell phone could of shot better video. Also a proper step by step commentary could help. I would of much rather you guys shot, edited, and aired the following day. Then the sound would be better, and there wouldn’t be constant useless conversation about the “audio”, “twitter” and “alex” (aka Giuliani’s kid). But otherwise it was two hours I could of used to watch Point Break.
Yeah, I just watched the recorded video. It’s rough. I think the production had some bumps, for one thing audio was a problem and not sure why we could not get it going (we were actually had wireless going but no go with the streaming for some reason). The Video, yes, I should have used the uStream phone app ;). I will be pulling a hard line to the laptop and hopefully that will help. It’s a slow start, but at least the motor is out!
I have to go clean up the shop and will try to post some close ups of the parts and, well mangled parts…
Sandy
What kind of heads were on the block you pulled out? I take it that the new block is man-o-war?
Please announce when the track day will be and if we are all invited to particpate. Its always fun getting my Cobra on the track.
Morgan
The block is a Ford Racing SVO 302 Aluminum Block. They may be out of production, I’m not sure. The block going in is also Ford SVO, the other blocks that I have are Dart Aluminum 302’s. The heads are older Canfield Heads, they work really well up about 570hp. I have the same build with different heads (Edelbrock Victors) and the motor made 620hp. Track day is coming, will be limited enrollment but will be open. Looking like April, we did have a day but it may not work due to some shows we need to be at. We will get it announced in the next week or so.
Sandy
Hey Sandy…thanks for all the free entertainment…I just had a conversation with a client of mine over at Bondurant, here in phx and he spoke highly of you guys (apparantly they are fans)…would you guys even consider a CarCast out here?
Sure, send some plane tickets, we have helmets already 😉
We have been so hammered with CarCast and everything else going on we have not had much chance to venture out. We will, and would love to get some driving lessons, have met the folks at Bondurant a couple of times and all good stuff so just need the travel time to get out.
Sandy
Sandy,
Thanks for the info, I have a Mexican 302 block on ebay right now. My good friend talked me into going a different direction for the 67 Mustang Tans Am coupe. Man o War Block, small joural Sonny Bryant crank, Light weight rods, pistons, Funnel Web instake and ARP heads will be some of the parts in the 331 engine build.
Sounds like a very good combination. I wanted to try the FW intake but due to height issues, I think it put me too tall for the stock $helby hood. 331 is a good combination. Man o’ war is a good block too. Should make some good power. Just keep the rods connected to the crankshaft!
Sandy
Still trying to decide which was better quality.. The Paris Hilton sextape or this video..
Paris Hilton, no question… We do have real video coming up, not the webcam stuff.
Hey Aceman!!
I just watched the clip and agree with Mark. You should have shot it in nightvision – it would have some through better.
I’m a ‘Stang fan from way back. And you know what that means… I got my first piece of tail in the back of a ’67. So I’ll always have a real soft spot in my heart for them. This one I love, it takes a real genius to put a paint scene like this on one of these babies, and I’m not kidding. Love those stripes.
I just have one question – how many guys does it take to pull a small block. Me and my buddy, Terry did it in half the time. Call me next time Ace, we’ll take care of ya!
Would have taken no time at all if I did it with one helper 🙂 But the idea was to have fun with a few friends that like to help out. Would have been 15 min shorter too if I had some tools, the CarCast box was light and I didn’t bring a pair of needle nose pliers down and that damn stainless cotter pin was not giving up easily 😉
The funny thing on the paint, a can of BBQ Flat Black the night before a couple of the track runs got it done. It had a nice paint job on it but after plastic hood/deck the original stripes had to go. It was a Red and Gold car, I’m guessing the PO was a San Fransisco 49’er fan. But I too love the look of the car. The motor is another story!
Sandy
Watching that cotter pin removal on the trans crossmember was painful Sandy, made me want to jump right in there and help you.
Ha, yet another cook in the kitchen 😉 Serves me right for using a stainless one and not having a needle nose to work it out. I’m going to get Donny to edit the clean video we shot so it looks like it just came right out… The magic of the editor.
Sandy
This is really awesome! I can’t believe I didn’t watch it until now, definitely a big step forward for carcast. I really liked how you did this segment, letting us get a look at some of the work you guys get to do. While I like the normal carcast interview form, I wouldn’t mind seeing more of these episodes from time to time. Keep up the great work guys!
Hey guys, Great show, and I’m very much looking forward to more rebuilding and such. .And with commentary and references and some Q & A along the way this can be mighty interestin’. However, take Adam’s advice and use the air tools, at least when doing some of the mundane tasks – I’ve almost dozed off while ratcheting out endless bolts doing my own repairs so it’s not exactly riveting for long periods unless Adam or someone is making remarks or cracking jokes or something ( or making bad puns ). But in any case, Thank You for doing this show, it is much appreciated.
No problem, that was our first shot. The live video was a test to see how it might go, and good feed back on the time to do stuff. I think it was a good thing that we didn’t stop to hammer a 6 pack of beer. We shot video bit and will put that together as a quicker and less painful way to view. I think the next live work will be when we pump so gas in it and fire it up, The rest of the work we will video to keep some quality and have the option to remove the what will now be known as “CPS or Cotter Pin Syndrome”
Still won’t be using the air impact or ratchet wrenches (Yes I do actually have them) as I really enjoy busting knuckles. But I’ll make sure you don’t have to deal with the pain of watching via the magic of the Donny’s editing!
Thanks for the feedback, always valued!
Sandy
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I haven’t had a chance to see the vid yet but enjoyed the pics. What headers are you using on the car? I had a tough time finding 1-3/4″ headers for that generation of Mustang. Finally found a set but was wondering what you came up with for the ripper. That’s some nice fab work with the exhaust.
I hope the story on what happed to those rods is covered in the video. Nice workmanship on the car and thanks again for the great podcast.
The larger tube headers on the early Mustangs are hit or miss, and I don’t mean the the shorties, but regular style. I had a couple set of Hookers that didn’t work with the after market heads or more oddly head studs. Got a second set that were supposed to be the same and they fit just as a bad, but what was worse they were not bent in the same pattern. So out with the hookers. Ended up having to go to one of the shops that vintage races GT350’s and pulled out the credit card and had them made. They are stepped, and come in 3 sections so you can drop them in parts. It you do anything with your headers spend the $$ and have them coated, worth every penny. Trying to find someone that could build them _and_ someone that could answer basic design questions are rare. Plenty of people can build them, not many really know what they are doing other then welding. Also another other issue that has come up is the sag together of the shock towers in the early cars, it can make a really tight fit where it might otherwise drop in. Watch out for clutch linkage too, if you can go hydraulic dump the z-bar and get the set up. Huge help in making the header mess easier.
Sandy
The ripper is looking Good guys. I’m going to be hunting for a fastback myself hopefully next year. Personally I like the 67/68’s for that more muscular look and that big ol’ sweeping booty.
Hoping for something I can enjoy on a Sunday for around the 25k – 30k range, doesn’t need to be a concourse quality vehicle or a rotisserie restore, still trying to work out what to look for. The 390GT looks like a nice spec, maybe an S code with the deluxe interior and that sweet kickback pinstripe around the rear fender vent.
Interested as to why your personal choice is the 65/66 style, what is it about that shape that you find most appealing.
Just looks right the later cars are too big and bloated. The early once are really nicely styled and I think proportioned right. I do like 69/70′ but not as much as the one I have. Also they are light and that makes them fast :). Also the later models have the big ‘eye brow’ dash that I removed on my car, make the dash look really nice without the foam padding like the R-Models Shelby’s. All personal taste, never let someone tell you that what you like isn’t right!
Sandy
Aye I hear you. I guess for me the 65/66 shape can’t seem to make up it’s mind if it’s a coupe or a fastback with the roof line dissolving into the trunk like that – like you say though, personal taste.
But hey, I like you guys, Yasmin Bleeth, Jennifer Connelly and Bacon wrapped chili cheese hot dogs so how bad can my taste be ?