The Ripper : Radiator Project

March 19, 2010

Sandy and Matt get busy again. We start out with a quick post mortem on the engine and look at the block and a few of the mangled parts. Then we jump in with the air cutoff and chop a larger opening in the radiator support for the new Fluidyne radiator.

Audio for this is also in the Main CarCast ‘Hollywood Hot Rod’ Episode HERE

Photo Gallery

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Radiator Video

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8 thoughts on “The Ripper : Radiator Project

  1. nater

    Ganz, are you concerned about the change in geometry after removing “extra” metal? Haven’t listened yet so maybe you address it on show.

    1. CarCast Post author

      Nathan –

      Should not make much difference. The front structure that was cut doesn’t have much to do with integrity of the car as far as the suspension is concerned. It’s well forward of the triangulated braces and they take most of the upper load so should not make a difference. It was flimsy from the start :).


  2. Jeff

    Hey Professor,

    You covered your ripper radiator project right after I ordered my oversized new radiator package that I plan on throwing in my 65 Falcon while the engine bay is out at the shop so you’ve got my attention on this one.

    Details on how this turned out and any lessons learned would be great to share with the audience (and before I shred into my front core support).

    Thanks (and keep up the shows)

    1. CarCast Post author

      Jeff –

      The regular Fluidyne one that came out would work for most all applications on the street, and for the track except in the crazy high power range motors, I think the stock fan shroud bolts up too (I never used one on the track). It’s a nice and easy upgrade that just required a different fan spacer then the stock one that came out. It is a thick radiator, but should drop in. If you are going to a side tank unit the 69′ Camaro one from Fluidyne is what I used but I think you can get a generic and standard sized racing radiator that is even a bit wider. The Camaro radiator is cool (no pun intended) since the brackets are welded up and look like they will bolt right up to the core support. Worst case might be that I have to slice them and re-weld to get a bit of angle but I’m really hoping not to have to. One other thing that you might think of is water pumps. IF you want to go to a later model pump they have the intake to the pump on the opposite side of the early ones, which can open the door to other late model bolts on’s. Make sure you get the matching bottom ports for the radiator as water pump. For the top, just change the thermostat housing or use a swivel one like CSR and other make and you can go either side without too much trouble.



  3. Minesh

    Any way you can make CarCast a video podcast on iTunes? Listening is nice, but I find myself waiting for the video because it’s so much better to actually SEE what you’re talking about. It would make treadmill time go by so much faster.

    1. CarCast Post author

      No plans to do it right now. We are working on getting the videos in an iPhone/iPod format that will help in the short term.


  4. CStubing

    Man, those cutoff tools are dangerous. I would at least get one with a shield if I were you… So many bad things can happen if you slip.

  5. Mark Mason

    I might have found a set of alumanum heads for my 351c so that means
    the changs are the holly 4b the headers the 2750 edelbrock manifold heccel ignition holly fual pump and dual exaust my target
    HP is 325 how close do you think i am getting and how do you go about checking to see if the heads are good plus what are they worth I offerd hanging is kichen cabeinets wich will take
    me two days but i would like to know if the heads are good first.I hope asking him to let me check them out wont piss him off do you think i should just take them and count myself lucky or have them checked and if so whare to take them to have them checked They look new.
    any thoughts you have would be greatly appreciated
    This is for a 1973 Mustang

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